So where did I go? Not far from Rome – to the town of Tivoli only 30km (20 miles)  away which boasts two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Like most day-trip destinations, Tivoli is in the shadows of Rome’s renowned attractions and unknown to most people.

Canopus at Hadrian's Villa

I know, I know – with all that there is to see in Rome alone, day-trips don’t often make the cut. But should you decide to take a “break” from Rome, you will be spoilt for choice! In no particular order, here are 12 day trips, ranging from formal gardens to splendid villas to idyllic towns, which are well-worth a visit.

1. Hadrian’s Villa, Tivoli

Built in the 2^nd A.D as the summer residence for the Emperor Hadrian, the complex covers an area of 300 acres and is today still impressive. An architectural and engineering masterpiece by any standards, Hadrian’s Villa comprised of over 30 buildings including several thermal baths, palaces, libraries and temples! Walking through the ruins and vast complex, you can easily imagine the grandeur of the villa.

2. Villa d’Este, Tivoli

Villa d’Este with its glorious gardens and stunning fountains is simply breathtakingly beautiful! Elaborately designed the fountains are a spectacular. The most acclaimed, the “Organ and Neptune” fountain with cascading water and jets of water spurting high in the air, is a theatrical performance that will leave you spell-bounded. And with names like the “Avenue of the Hundred Fountains” and the “Fountain of the Dragon”, be ready for a visually stimulating experience.

3. Civita di Bagnoregio

Anyone who has seen a photo of Civita di Bagnoregio thinks it’s oddly surreal! And it is – even in person. Sitting precariously on a rock and surrounded by a desolate canyon, the sight of Civita di Bagnoregio will leave you speechless.

Civita di Bagnoregio

The crumbling of its foundations through the years has created this impressive setting and today it is known as the “dying town”. Located between the borders of Lazio and Umbria, Civita di Bagnoregio is far from “dying” and with recent media attention, this vibrant and thriving town is experiencing a revival.

4. Castelli Romani

Literally translated to “Roman Castles”, visitors will be surprise to learn that Castelli Romani are 13 hill-towns situated 20 km (12 miles) south-east of Rome in the Alban Hills (Colli Albani). While the name Castelli Romani may not ring a bell, most visitors are probably familiar with two of its better known towns: Castel Gandolfo, home to the Pope’s summer palace, and Frascati, famous for its superb white wine.

However, don’t miss out on the smaller towns like Nemi renowned for its wild strawberries and Ariccia for its specialty, the mouthwatering “porchetta”. With splendid villas, verdant countryside, stunning lakes, and fabulous food and wine, it makes for a perfect and easy day trip from Rome.

5. Villa Lante

Villa Lante, in the town of Bagnaia near Viterbo, is truly off the beaten path. It’s one of the most enchanting places I’ve visited and with barely any visitors, you find yourself immersed in tranquility.

Starting in a green and serene area open to the public, you couldn’t miss the Pegasus Fountain representing the Greek myth of a winged horse striking the earth with its hoof and thus bursting a spring. This is only a premonition of things to come.

Stunning!

For a small fee, you get access to the beautifully well-manicured gardens with the fairy-tale like fountains on 4-tiered terraces. While I can’t put my finger on it, there’s something magical about the place – so much so that it makes you feel like you’ve accidentally wandered into an enchanted garden.

6. Palazzo Farnese, Caprarola

A spectacular pentagonal building situated above the town of Caprarola, Palazzo Farnese was the brainchild of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese , the future Pope Paul III. Also situated in Lazio, the 5-floor Palazzo boasts an array of rooms filled with some incredible frescoes.

At first glance, the façade and the entry area of the Palazzo look plain and worn. But the spectacular spiral stairs taking you to the first floor gives you a preview of things to come. One of the most remarkable rooms is the Room of the Map of the World.  Keeping in mind this was completed in the 16^th century, the room had paintings of continents and countries which were shockingly accurate.

Once you have finished the tour of the interior, don’t miss the gardens! With striking fountains in the Upper Gardens, it’s a sight to behold.

7. Pompeii

Pompeii

A popular day-trip and a bold option, Pompeii is stretching the concept of a “day-trip”. The day usually starts at the break of dawn and gets you back in the evening. That said, you will be well-rewarded.

Situated just outside Naples, in the region of Campania, it’s mind-numbing to think that an entire city was buried under ashes, and consequently kept intact, by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D.  Frozen in time, you get a glimpse of Roman life from its amphitheaters, elaborate thermal baths, well-paved road, and yes, even a brothel with erotic frescoes!

8. Palace of Caserta

Caserta is not known as a tourist destination but the 18^th century Palace, modeled after Versailles, is a hidden gem worth visiting. Built for the Bourbon kings of Naples, this grandiose palace covering 45,000 sqm (over 480,000 sq ft) is divided into 4 wings and has over 1200 rooms, including some elaborately adorned apartments.

Equally stunning is the garden which covers an area of about 120 hectares (296 acres). The main central path that runs 3.2 km (2 miles) long from the palace features a number of spectacular fountains, with the majestic Great Fountain of Diana & Actaeon located at the end of the stretch.

9. Todi, Umbria

One of the many picturesque hill towns in Umbria, Todi is often overlooked by visitors. Lying in the southern part of Umbria, the town’s low-key and laid-back pace offers you authentic and genuine experience.

Views from Todi

This charming town won’t wow you with massive and elaborate churches but instead, with its many intriguing gems. From the unfinished 12^th-century church where one of the most renowned Italian poets, Jacopone da Todi is buried to the lovely Piazza del Popolo to a fascinating “Painted House”, Todi is guaranteed to win you over.

10. Monte Soratte

How about talking a walk on the wild side?  If you are looking to experience a hike that will reward you stunning views, head to Monte Soratte. Just 60km (37 miles) north of Rome, Monte Soratte offers 11 different trails of varying difficulty and no,  it’s not necessarily wild – unless you want it to be! At the peak, you will be awed by the unobstructed panoramic views of surroundings and surprised to find a hermitage with frescoes from the 14-15^th century.

If you have time after your hike, drop by the Abbey of St. Andrew in Flumine (located close to the highway) which boasts a stunning Romanesque church with beautiful frescoes dating back to the 8th century.

11. Orvieto, Umbria

A small town which was already a flourishing center of trade and arts between the 6 and 4^th centuries B.C, Orvieto is layered in history. Sitting on the plateau of a volcanic rock, this town surrounded by a defensive wall is home to the splendid Cathedral of Orvieto with its remarkable Gothic façade.

Beneath the town lies another layer of its fascinating history – a maze of Etruscan caverns, wells and quarry as well as a medieval olive press. And after all the sightseeing, you’d be wise to enjoy a glass or two of the famous Orvieto Classico before returning to Rome.

12. Ostia Antica

Ostia Antica

Ostia Antica, 20 miles from Rome, dates back to the 4^th century B.C and with its well-preserved ruins and roads, it offers you a glimpse of the past! Once situated where the Tiber met the sea, the town first served as a military outpost before becoming a thriving port.

Walking along Ostia Antica’s main street, Decumanus Maximus, is an eerily fascinating experience as you pass by markets, necropolis, baths, a remarkable theater, the forum and temples. This is only one of the several paths in Ostia Antica, so put on decent walking shoes!

And the list goes on…..

This is by no means an exhaustive list so please add on! Share your favorite day trips from Rome in the comments below.

Here are events that are happening now, this weekend and in a couple of weeks. If you’ve missed out on these, pen them down for next year!

Rome Masters (Tennis)

Foro Italico

As a tennis fan and player, this is one event I eagerly look forward to! Held annually at the Foro Italico in May, the Rome Masters draws top-players as its preparation prior to the French Open. Only held for a week, it is action-packed as both women’s and men’s matches are played simultaneously.

This year, we got center-court tickets for later in the week and saw Federer and Sharapova easily advanced into the quarterfinals. If you plan to attend next year, buy tickets online early as they sell-out pretty fast. When we bought our tickets in March, the tickets for semis and finals were already sold out.

Komen Race For The Cure

Though not an international sporting event per se, the Race for the Cure is one I fully support. The event is tomorrow starting at 10am at Terme di Caracalla. If you are interested, you can still register at the venue before 9am.

This charity event is for everyone regardless of your fitness level as there is an easy 2km walk, fun 5km run and for those who love some competition, the competitive 5km run. There is usually a big turn out and last year, we saw serious runners, families with young kids, teenagers, and members from various associations joining this great cause.

Golden Gala - Athletics

The event will be held at the Olympic Stadium on June 6th, 2013 and tickets are now on sale. Like every year, there is a huge turnout thanks to the iconic Usain Bolt who will again be participating in the 100m race.

Ticket prices are very affordable, starting at €5 and if you plan on going, head there early as there are no assigned seats. It’s on a first-come, first-serve basis which can make it difficult to find two seats together.

Have fun at these sporting events in Rome!

Photo taken from the ferry: Manarola

While doing research on Cinque Terre, it came as no surprise that the best way in getting there was by train. With the five towns (that’s why it’s called Cinque Terre) Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore all clinging on the coastline, getting there by car and finding parking can be an issue.

Adding to that we were staying there on April 24, a national holiday in Italy, which meant almost every hotel which offered parking was full (or ridiculously expensive). After much perseverance (& frustration), we found a place to stay. Here is a look at our 24 hours in Cinque Terre with handy tips and advice.

Accommodation

We almost decided to skip Cinque Terre altogether as we couldn’t find a place and last minute we were fortunate that Hotel La Spiaggia in Monterosso had availability. They had quoted us a rate of €150 a night for a double room (no balcony) which included buffet breakfast and parking. You may find it pricey but considering the timing, it was reasonable. It was also a plus that we could basically drive up and stop 10 meters from the hotel to unload.

Parking is not in the public parking area that is available on the beach front but a reserved place 50 meters behind the hotel and under the rail tracks. Though it’s not a secured area and a bit tight, we didn’t feel uncomfortable leaving the car there.

Our room was simply furnished  and while it is an average-sized room by Italian standards, many would probably find it small. The same would be said for the bathroom. It was fine for us and more importantly, the room was clean. I was initially concerned about the noise because of its location by the beach and though there was some noise from the street with the windows open, we had a quiet night.

The hotel is in the new town of Monterosso and ideally located. It is only a few minutes walk from the train station, close to plenty of restaurants and only about 10 minutes to the old town through the pedestrian tunnel. Staff are friendly and very helpful in giving advice even before we got there. There is however one oddity – they don’t take credit cards.

Lungomare at Monterosso al Mare

Getting Around – Ferry and Train

Here is a detailed post on getting around Cinque Terre by train which is probably the best way to get to all five towns if you are not hiking. However, we opted to first take the ferry from Monterosso to Riomaggiore as the views of the five towns from sea must be spectacular. And they were! To purchase tickets and board the ferry head to the docks of the old town. Once you are out of the pedestrian tunnel in the old town, it’s on your right.

Here’s the schedule until June 2013. 

We had planned on visiting all 5 towns and once we saw the train schedule, we knew it was impossible to do so in 24 hours. We purchased a ticket for €4 that was valid for 6 hours headed in one direction with unlimited stops. And don’t forget to validate your tickets at these machines.

Don't forget to validate your train tickets

Trains didn’t run as frequently as we had thought and don’t expect them to be on time. All the trains we took were delayed and as it already packed in April, I can imagine it must be extremely uncomfortable in peak season. The only plus is that it’s only a few minutes ride between the 5 towns.

Below is the ticket pricing option together with the tariff for the park that was taped on the wall in the train station.

Note: If you plan on hiking we were informed, at the time we were there, that only the hiking paths from Monterosso to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia are open. The Via dell’Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola is closed.

Towns

Many articles have been written on what to see and do in the Cinque Terre. Below are links to the resources which I used for my trip. With 24-hours, we only had time to walk around each of the three towns and entered a couple of remarkable churches.

Town of Vernazza

To enjoy the atmosphere of each town, start out early. The morning we left, we went for another walk around the old town of Monterosso and as there was hardly anyone around, it was more enjoyable and you get to fully appreciate the charm of the town.

Rick Steves’ Guide to Vernazza and Monterosso

Riomaggiore

Corniglia

Manarola

Places to Eat

Making our way to the old town, we stopped to get a foccacia at Il Massimo della Focaccia only to discover we had to wait for 20 minutes for the focaccia which were still in the oven. We decided to try another place in the old town but the next day we were back here. Service can be a bit slow but your patience will be worth it.

We decided to try another place, Ely in the old town. There were lines here too and only a few focaccia were still available. They were good and I am probably going to get in trouble for saying this but it didn’t wow me. The focaccia in my neighborhood bakery is as good if not better.

Dinner

The last time I had pesto in Liguria, it was heaven and was looking for the same experience.  I should know by now not to have high expectations. La Cantina di Miky came highly recommended and we had asked for a table near the beach. The tables though were tightly packed one next to another which meant we were privileged to the conversation of the tables to the left and right of us and vice-versa.

The actual dish - disappointing!

The appetizer started well. The dish of baked anchovies were cooked perfectly and I was eager to have the pesto. It was a test of patience and after a significant wait for the primo (pasta), I even commented that they must still be picking the basil. When it finally come I was ready to dig in only to find the dish incredibly salty. What a disappointment!

It felt as if the chef had forgotten he had already added salt to the pot of water and added another handful. I admit I use salt sparingly but if my husband says it’s salty, that’s saying something. It was a pity really because when I used a piece of bread to taste the pesto sauce without the pasta it was heavenly.

I came very close to sending the dish back and at the end, I decided not to. The hotel had also recommended La Barcaccia which was nearby and in hindsight, we would probably have eaten better there.

Is Cinque Terre similar to the Amalfi Coast?

The coastlines and the cluster of color homes on these two coastlines are similar but apart from that there are more differences than similarities.

Driving to Cinque Terre we already noted the difference. The drive which offered incredible views was inland while on the Amalfi Coast you’d be on the coastline in awe at that cliffhanging drops. That said, both drives are windy and filled with tight curves!

View while driving to Monterosso al Mare

From our brief stay in Cinque Terre it was clear that it draws hiking enthusiasts more than beachgoers. There were many people in hiking gears and while there is a good hiking path in the Amalfi Coast, you’d see more people in beachwear.

However, it is so much easier to travel between the Cinque Terre towns thanks to the train. In the Amalfi Coast, you’ll have to depend on the bus or for those who can afford it, a private transfer.

Have you been to both the Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terre?  Which do you prefer and why?

At each leg, 16 gelato artisans will be selected to showcase their “masterpiece” and in Rome, there were also free courses and workshop at the Gelato World Tour Village. For more information, here are the details about the event and program in Rome. As you know I can’t resist gelato and after work this afternoon, I just had to drop by. You can get a Gelato Pass for €5 that will give you 4 tastings and if you show your ATAC annual or monthly pass, you will get another one for free.

Go with friends as each tasting is a generous serving and this will also give you the opportunity to try more flavors. Narrowing down the choice to 5 flavors was a challenge and after reading through the list, here were my 5 tastings.

1. Torta di Mele (Apple tart)

Familiar flavors of the good ol’ apple pie in a gelato with raisins and pine nuts were simple yet an astounding combination.

2. Cuor di Brontolo (Grumpy’s Heart)

I heart pistachio gelato and couldn’t pass up on this tasting which uses pistachios from Bronte. Of course, I loved it!

3. Fichi al Cioccolata (Chocolate Figs)

I didn’t need to read the description of this gelato and I was sold. Figs and chocolate – enough said.  I could already imagine the flavor and maybe having an expectation was a mistake.

It had a negligible scent of figs and in my opinion, the chocolate was overpowering. I wished they also had some pieces of figs which would have made a difference.

As for my last two tastings, I decided to get adventurous – well, just a bit!

4. Sapori Aquilani (Flavors of L’Aquila)

The combination of torrone nougat and saffron got my interest.  While I could imagine the flavors of figs and chocolate, nougat and saffron was inconceivable. Surprisingly I enjoyed this combination and though there was only a hint of saffron, it was a good balance.

5. Pane e Marmellata (Bread and Jam)

Unique for a gelato wouldn’t you say? They had a choice of fig or apricot jam and I went with figs.  It was delightful with mild and subtle flavors.  If I had the chance to go back, I’d try this flavor again. I thoroughly enjoyed the first few bites but after 4 cups of gelato, I was at my limit!

Don’t Miss This Event

This is a fun event and evident from the presence of people of all ages, it is one that everyone will  enjoy.  If you are in Rome, hope you won’t miss it (there’s still Saturday and Sunday!) and if not, check to see if there is Gelato World Tour coming to a city near you soon.

Don't miss this event!

Hours

Saturday 4 and Sunday 5 May from 12.00  to 23.00

Pilgrims at Scala Santa

Situated in the neighborhood of San Giovanni, Scala Santa are the holy stairs which Jesus was supposedly to have walked up to face the judgment given by Pontius Pilate. The stairs which were said to be brought to Rome in the 4th century by St. Helena, the mother of the Emperor Constantine the Great, are housed in a structure with a simple and humble facade.

It also doesn’t help that Scala Santa sits in the shadows of the Basilica di San Giovanni and is often skipped by visitors who unknowingly walk by when making their way to the Basilica, the main attraction in the neighborhood. However, this could quickly change as Rick Steves has just written about his experience here in a recent article on Italy.

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano

Scala Santa though has always attracted Christian pilgrims who intentionally visit this sacred place to participate in the ritual of ascending the 28 white marble steps on their knees. Regardless of whether you are religious or not, the sight of the faithful slowly making their way up the stairs on their knees is a moving experience.

However, don’t just experience that and leave. You’ll be missing out on the incredible opportunity to visit the Sancta Sanctorum (“Holy of Holies”) which was the first private papal chapel before the relocation to the Vatican. Located at the top of the stairs and for a minimal fee, there is a custodian who will give you a detailed description of the frescoes and history of the Sancta Sanctorum (in Italian).

And yes there is way to get to the top of the stairs without going up on your knees. There are stairs to the left and right of the Holy Stairs that you can walk up to get to the souvenir shop where you can purchase the tickets from the nuns.

My suggestion is to take the stairs to the farthest left when facing the Holy Stairs and when you are at the top, turn left and you can’t miss the souvenir shop. Let the nuns know you want to buy a ticket for the Sancta Sanctorum €3.50 and €5 to also visit San Silvestro, I bought the latter.

Sancta Sanctorum

The fee as you can see is minimal but many visitors just stood outside to take photos. If you have time, I would highly recommend that you buy the ticket. As I have mentioned, the custodian shared specifics and gave me a private tour of about 30 minutes. I had to wait for about 10-15 minutes for the previous group (there were only two people) and took this time to marvel at the details, especially the frescoes.

For example, looking up, the radiant blue vault with the symbol of the fours evangelists gave you the sensation that you were looking up to the heavens. The colors were captivating and as you move your eyes downwards, you will see that within the lunettes there are frescoes mostly depicting the scenes of martrydoms.

Another fascinating object in the Sancta Sanctorum that hangs behind the altar is the Acheropita, the image of the Saviour that tradition says “was not made by hand”. The custodian shared many fascinating stories associated with this venerated object and when given such insights, only then can you fully appreciate the Chapel.

Acheropita and Mosaics of Christ Pantocrator

Facing the same fate as many attractions in Italy, they unfortunately don’t have the budget for restoration and with the “Save the Stairs” campaign they aim to raise sufficient funds for much needed work. Hopefully you will take time from your schedule to visit the Scala Santa and any contribution will ensure the preservation of this sacred place!

For more details, please visit their official website.

Founded by the Etruscans and dating back 2,500 years ago, Civita di Bagnoregio is today desperately clinging to its dear life. Perched precariously on top of a tufa hill and surrounded by a desolate canyon, the town resembles an isolated island at the mercy of a tenacious ocean.

Stunning town on Civita di Bagnoregio

With its sides slowly crumbling away, Italians have dubbed it the “dying town” (il paese che muore) as its demise, due to natural elements, seems inevitable.  While there are only a handful of residents in this town, the term “dying”  is a misnomer. I had assumed, and thankfully wrongly, that it was a  ”gloom and doom” sort of town with an eerie and somber ambiance. It couldn’t be further from the truth.

Connected to outside world by a stretch of pedestrian bridge, this town situated in the Lazio region should be on everyone’s bucket list. Many are stunned when they hear it’s in Lazio but as I have said many times over, Lazio has its share of amazing gems.

Despite nature’s enigmatic death sentence on Civita di Bagnoregio, the soul of this town is alive and well! When we were here last weekend, this beautifully well-kept medieval town was vibrant, full of life and thriving.

Church of San Donato in the main piazza

The town itself, even with its imminent fate and having already survived two earthquakes, seems keen to show its visitors just how much life it still has left. And with the idea of charging a small fee to help with urgent structural maintenance, it is a fair price to pay in extending the life of this intriguing and unique town.

Though the majority of the people in the town were clearly visitors, it still had a good vibe and didn’t feel overly crowded. I’d read that Civita di Bagnoregio has got quite a bit of media attention outside of Italy and had expected a large number of foreign visitors. That wasn’t the case last week and there were no signs of those large tour buses…at least not yet.

Since many articles have been written up about the town and its history, I won’t cover that but will include these links at the end of the post.  Instead I’ll share the logistics of getting to Civita di Bagnoregio by car, the parking situation, the walk to the bridge and a few tips which I hope you’ll find useful.

Pedestrian bridge to the town

If you are planning to get there by public transportation from Rome, here is a pretty good post on taking the train from Rome to Orvieto and then a bus to Bagnoregio.  Just be aware that bus schedules here tend be loose (to put it mildly) and while I wouldn’t say it’s impossible, it can be challenging.

Getting to Civita di Bagnoregio by Car

The easiest way of getting to Civita di Bagnoregio is obviously by car and it takes about 90 minutes.  From Rome take the A1 highway (autostrada) northbound and exit at Orvieto.  If you don’t have a GPS (which we didn’t), follow the signs to Bagnoregio.

Some signs are a bit faded and even on the lookout for them, we missed the turn after getting off the autostrada.You will need to turn right at one point and if you happen to find yourself crossing a bridge, you have gone way too far (yes, that happened to us!).

In Bagnoregio, sign to the Civita

When you get to the town of Bagnoregio (not Civita di Bagnoregio), there are signs directing you to Civita.  It’s about 1-2km drive through the town and if you feel lost, stop a resident and even before you ask your question, they will tell you to just go straight ahead and you can’t miss it (yes, this happened to us too!)

Parking

And you sure couldn’t miss it!  There was a parking attendant in the middle of the road waving you into the parking lot as they had blocked the road that gets you right to the foot of the pedestrian bridge.  I went on a weekend and I am not sure if this would be the same arrangement on a weekday.

Parking lot

The parking area is basically the site of an abandoned building which is utterly appalling. Parking costs €2 per hour and then €1 for every hour after that or €6 per day.  Using the parking meter machine, you have to determine ahead of time how long you plan on staying and pay in advance. There is only one in the area and you can’t miss it.

Once you have paid, it will give you a ticket indicating the time you need to leave by. Put this ticket inside the car and in a position that is visible in the event they check (top of the dashboard usually works well).

Tip: To be on the safe side, make sure you allocate plenty of time  so you won’t have to rush through the town. On top of that, you wouldn’t want to find yourself short on time and realize that you have to take the long walk back to the parking area to get another ticket.

We spent about 3 hours including lunch but it felt a bit rushed. I would say give yourself 4-5 hours for an enjoyable stroll and lunch. Also it is always handy to have loose change (especially €1 or €2 coins) to pay for parking.

Entrance and Walk to the Bridge

From the parking area, you would walk to an  entrance that offers you a breathtaking view of Civita di Bagnoregio. It’s here that you will get some fabulous photos of this striking town (the first photo in the post) and shortly after the excitement, it will then dawn upon you as to how on earth will you get to that bridge.

Entrance

Now for the slightly more difficult part. Walk further in, past the bar and the path turns slightly left where you will see that at the end there is another wonderful vantage point of Civita di Bagnoregio.  Before getting to the vantage point, there are some stairs on your right (no signs or indications) where you would make your way down.

It’s not a long flight of stairs (nothing like the ones in Positano) but I did see some elderly people struggle especially on the way back.  The stairs will take you to the road which I’d mentioned earlier that was closed off and it is about a 5-minute walk before you get right to the foot of the bridge.

If you have problems with stairs, there is a shuttle bus from the parking lot that will get you meters from the foot of the bridge but I believe there is a small fee involved.

The walk on the bridge itself is not difficult though the last stretch is steep. Having good walking shoes will definitely help.  At one point, the wind picked up and the bridge swayed ever so slightly.

It freaked me out a little as having a fear of heights didn’t help but overall, it really wasn’t an issue. Here’s a 6-second vine video of our walk up to Civita di Bagnoregio.

Love this view from Civita di Bagnoregio

Tip: When visiting Civita di Bagnoregio allow your curiosity to lead the way.  There were some corners which looked like they might just lead to a dead-end and some did but others were filled with surprises.  This town is full of hidden gems!

Lunch

You’d be happy to know there are some good options for lunch and prices were not exorbitant. There are places that serve a simple meal like bruschette and salsicce but we opted instead to have a regular lunch: appetizers, primi and dessert.

We had lunch at Osteria al Forno di Agnese which is in front of  the Church of S. Donato.  It would be difficult to miss it as there were clear signs.  We didn’t make reservations and fortunately still got a table as we arrived before 1pm.  They have an indoor and outdoor dining area and as you can imagine, all tables outside were reserved.

We ordered appetizers and for primo, I got pappardelle al cinghiale and Luca had zuppa di farro which was full of flavors and the clear winner! Servings were generous and that’s why we skipped the secondo and went straight to dessert.

Zuppa di Farro - Delicious!

Tip: If you plan on having lunch at any of the restaurants here on the weekends, especially when it is a gorgeous day, I would recommend making reservations or going a bit earlier than the usual lunch hour. When we left the restaurant at about 2pm, there were a few people outside waiting to be seated. Many restaurants also offer set lunch menus and I normally steer clear of these places. This time around, I am not sure why I thought the menu they had looked decent.  At the end, I ordered ala carte.

Resources

Here some handy resources that I used when planning the day trip to Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio: An Italian Hilltown by Rick Steves

Bagnoregio by RomeArtLover.it

This link by a B&B in Civita di Bagnoregio has a simple map of the town

Website of I Borghi piu Belli d’Italia

Restaurants - used TripAdvisor as well as the notes from Rick Steves above

Well-kept and charming town

Have you been to Civita di Bagnoregio?  What was your impression and what advice would you give visitors?

Easter for us is usually synonymous with a feast but this year, the weekend happened to also coincide with three birthdays in the family. If that wasn’t enough, we had friends in town and met for a hearty dinner Friday night.

On the Appian Way

As the day after Easter, better known as Pasquetta (Little Easter),  is a holiday here in Italy, I seriously needed to go for a walk. Unfortunately, the weather was not cooperating and we decided to tackle only one section of the Appian Way.

The stretch, from the intersection between Via Erode Attico and Via Tor Carbone to Via di Casale Rotondo, is often busy on weekends and on a beautiful clear day, you will usually find a long line of cars parked along the main road. Surprisingly, even despite the gray skies that day, there were a good number of people out on a walk or on bicycles.

It is understandable that visitors to Rome, especially first-timers and those on a tight schedule, seek out the attractions such as the Colosseum, the Vatican and the must-see sights but if you can, I would recommend a walk or bike along the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica).

It’s a great way to step outside the city walls for a day to get a break from the hustle of the city and yet still be immersed in the history of  Rome.

Monumental tomb with a headless male statue in a toga

The Appian Way

The Appian Way dates back to 312 B.C is part of the Appia Antica Park which covers an area of 3,500 hectares. Known as “Regina Viarum”, the queen of roads, it was intended for military purpose with the first stretch connecting Rome to Capua, near Naples and then extended all the way to Brindisi, in Southern Italy in 191 B.C. An incredible feat and not surprisingly, it was the considered the most advanced road system of its time.

As you walk along the Appian Way, you will see that this road is heavily-lined with tombs, catacombs and funerary monuments as the Roman law during the period forbade burials within the walls of the city.

Graves of the Orazi

Among the many fascinating stories, the most well-known legend has to be that of St. Peter who saw the vision of Jesus on this road while he was fleeing the persecutions of the Christians by Nero. St. Peter asked Jesus ”Domine, quo vadis?”  (Lord, where are you going?) and Jesus replied “Eo Romam iterum crucifigi” (I am going to Rome to be crucified again).

Realizing what the vision meant, St. Peter ashamed, turned around and faced his fate and martyrdom in Rome. Today, the Church of Domine Quo Vadis stands on this spot where the meeting took place and is also known as Church of St Mary in Palmis.

Pretty fascinating, isn’t it?

How to Get There and Tips

The Appia Antica Park website is very thorough and provides details in English on how to get there by public transport as well as various itineraries on foot and by bike depending on time and difficulty level. They also have information on bike rentals which are very affordable and will allow you to easily explore this historic road.

Another option is to take the ArcheoBus which is a hop on and off bus that stops at Sede Parco Regionale Appia Antica. The ticket is valid for 48 hours and costs €12. (There’s contradictory information here as the website of the Appia Antica Park lists the price as €15.  But this at least gives you an indication as to the price range.)  I have never used this service before and therefore, can’t vouch as to how good they are.

Also, ensure you allocate sufficient time when you walk along the Appian Way as there are impressive sights to visit along the stretch. While there is no fee to walk along the Appian Way, there is a small fee for visits to these sights.  Here is a link to their opening times and fees.

I hope I have given you enough resources to help you plan a visit to the Appian Way and as always, there is always something special about a place that’s off the beaten path for visitors to Rome.

Have you walked along the Appian Way? What advice and tips would you share?

Since then I’ve only stared at fascination and with envy at those who zip around on Segways – they look like a brilliant way to get around a city.  So when I received an invitation to take a Segway Tour in Rome, I was more than thrill to accept it and would like to extend a big thank you to Italy Segway Tours for the kind invite.

Fixing a date wasn’t as easy as the weather had been fickle lately and finally we found a weekend where we would have at least some sun.  As always, Luca joined me and this time around, I didn’t rope him into doing this as he was also keen to try out the Segway.

I will admit that I had my concerns about the Segway.  What if I find it too difficult to use? It would then be a very long 3-hour tour. Would we be on the roads or the sidewalks? To add more drama to this scenario, I got even more worried about watching the introductory video on “How to Use the Segway” – it was illustrating what not to do and ways one could get hurt in the process.

Yes, that was my way of creating unnecessary drama for what turned out to be a fun experience.  At the end of the tour, the words of Fabio, our knowledgeable and friendly guide, rang true “Using the Segway comes naturally – you just have to relax!”.  And guess what?  We even passed the unofficial skills test at the end of the tour to show we were capable of using the Segway!

If you have doubts, I hope this post will convince you that it’s super easy to use a Segway and an ideal way to see Rome especially if you are only staying for a few days.  It enables you to cover a lot of ground and sights without getting worn out.  If we had been brave enough to test out a Segway earlier, we wouldn’t have suffered needlessly in Lisbon and Barcelona.

Tips:  Don’t bring a big bag with you as it can get in the way.  If you must, you could leave your bag in the office as they lock it up.  There is a small pouch on the Segway where you could leave your personal items.

It is advisable that you don’t bring anything valuable as there is no lock on the pouch. Having said that, I brought a small bag with me to carry my personal belongings and it didn’t get too much in the way.

Getting Started on the Segway

The meeting place was centrally located (very close to the Trajan’s Column) and we were given training on how to use the Segway in a safe and spacious area between the Fori and the church of Santa Maria di Loreto. Fabio gave precise instructions and though we initially struggled with the Segway, it only took a couple of minutes before we got used to them.

We learnt some basic skills such as moving forward, stopping and even going backwards.  Then as we were taught  how to keep stationary on the Segway, I thought for a second that I would get motion sickness with the slight back and forth rocking movement. Nothing like that at all.

We were told that the Segway has been authorized for use on the sidewalks and for pedestrian use which made me more at ease knowing we wouldn’t be run over by cars but rather, we could run over a few pedestrians – just kidding.

And the Segway tour begins…

Our first stop was basically right there – Trajan’s Market.  An archaeologist by training, Fabio shared interesting insights into this area which I was even unaware of.  As I have said before, there are so many things to discover and learn about Rome that the Italians weren’t joking when they say “Roma, non basta una vita” (Rome, a lifetime is not enough).

Fabio was always very attentive when guiding us from one sight to another.  When it was crowded, especially on the sidewalks from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum, he would sound his horn to warn pedestrians ahead of us that we were coming through. He would frequently look back to check that he was not too far ahead and made sure there was ample space for us to easily get through the crowds.

Once at the Colosseum, Fabio described the structure and instead of having to use our imagination to see how grandiose this place was, he shared a video on his iPad which took us back in time and showed the magnificence of this building at its time of glory. After the Colosseum, we made our way to Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus).  What seemed like another tricky route with busloads of tourists, uneven path and street vendors, Fabio cleared the way and made it effortless for us to make our get to Circo Massimo.

At Circo Massimo we got off and parked the Segway (and no you don’t have to lock it) and from here, you have a spectacular view of the Palatine Hill. Standing at the edge of this former stadium, Fabio explained the excavations taking place in one corner and the history of the place.  Then with a water fountain (nasone) nearby he, of course, had to demonstrate how to drink from one, which first time visitors would for sure find fascinating!

The next stops were the Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) and the Knights of Malta keyhole.  With a slight uphill climb, we saw some people on bicycles struggling up when we whizzed by effortlessly on our Segways.  I even heard a comment from one of the cyclists that “That would be another way to do it”. I absolutely agree!

We first made our way to the keyhole and since we saw there was a line to peep through it, we decided it skip it – after all, we have seen this incredible view before.  Instead, Fabio took the time to give us some background details as to the Knights of Malta which were equally fascinating. From there, we went to the Giardino degli Aranci where we spent some time to take in the spectacular panoramic view of Rome.

Spectacular view!

Going back down same road from where we came and finally feeling very confident on the Segway, we had a bit of fun with it on the stretch by the rose garden. So confident that Luca could just hang on with one hand while filming with the other!

After some care-free moments, we went back onto the streets and next up was Santa Maria in Cosmedin, home to La Bocca della Verita (The Mouth of Truth).  Faced with another set of lines to have a photograph taken, we chose to move onto our last stop, Campidoglio.

We took the back route to Campidoglio where we had a tricky skills test which I am pleased to say we passed with flying colors!  This was a route I have never taken before and was treated to one of the best views of the Roman Forum. Breathtaking!

By the time we got to Campidoglio, we were officially Segway pros and just had fun going round the piazza to make the most of it before the end of the tour.  Time flew and when asked if it was tiring, I can safely say that we barely broke a sweat and no joints or muscles were in pain.

For more details about the Segway tour, visit their website.

P.S. After the tour, my remarks to Luca was “I want a Segway!” and as often the case, the reply was the usual disapproving look.  I tried!

With slightly more than a week in Rome, it was a tight schedule especially as dinners were mainly at home with the family.  These were the places we ate at and yes, I passed the test with flying colors – approved of all of them.

Day 1

Romeo

Given that she had just arrived after a 16-hour flight and was eager to start the week off with the right bite, Romeo was the perfect choice.  It was a win-win as Romeo is located in the Prati area, close to where I work and was high on her list, this was an excellent venue to start a week of eating out.

Once we got there, she was spell bounded by the décor and love the atmosphere where you had the deli area with displays of cold cuts, cheeses and sandwiches to take away and the quieter restaurant section towards the back where you can order from a menu . Next to the deli, there are also bar counters and stools where you can enjoy an aperitivo or a quick bite.

Studying the menu , my sister had no doubt what she was going to order – the foie gras burger which was browned to perfection yet buttery and velvety when you bit into it.

Foie Gras Panino

Half way through the meal when was struggling to finish the burger, she removed the bread and savored the foie gras. That’s not to say the bread wasn’t good.  Quite the opposite – actually. The variety of bread they bring to your table in a brown paper bag is superb!

And of course we got dessert.  After a rather heavy lunch we opted for fresh fruits served with crumbles of shortbread. The light tanginess was refreshing and helped awaken us as the sleepiness after lunch was starting to slowly set in.

Dessert at Romeo: Freshing and light

Tip:  My sister mentioned that if she had come alone, she would have easily walked past the place as the entrance seems a bit obscured. Keep an eye out for the place.

Address:
Via Silla 26/a
00192, Rome
Tel: 06 32 110 120
Website

Average Price:  €35-€40 per person for appetizers, main course (secondo) and dessert

How to Get There
Take Metro A to Ottaviano and it’s a short 5 minutes walk from there.

Venchi

The closest thing to souvenirs my sister buys when she visits are chocolates and Venchi is apparently a favorite for many.  She has never been to this location and as there was also gelato, she didn’t hesitant – the problem was deciding which flavors to get.

Address:
Via Croce 25/26
00187 Rome
Tel: 06 69797790
Website

Day 2

Osteria Fernanda

A mistake I made worked in our favor.  The plan was to head to Da Cesare for lunch but I had completely forgotten they were closed on Wednesdays.  Realizing this mistake while about to catch the tram at Largo Argentina, I searched frantically in my head for an alternative.

Two options came up – Hamburgeseria or Osteria Fernanda.  My sister opted for Osteria Fernanda and that meant getting on the tram.  Caught up in this mess was my friend Maria who was a saint and still agreed to meet up despite the constant change in venue!

The food we had here was one of the best we had that week and service was courteous.  I had been here before with another friend Kathy a while back and knew that the portions were very generous.  I had asked if they could split the bucatini all’amatriciana into two plates and there were more than happy to do so.

Bucatini all'amatriciana

As you can see, that’s half a portion and the dish was close to perfect. The crunchy bits of guanciale on the top and the rich sauce has me longing to go back again for this hearty dish.  The only flaw would be that it was just a touch to salty for me and the others agreed.

The bucatini all’amatriciana alone was filling but I had my eyes on the calamari the moment I looked saw it on the menu.  The last time I had a calamari dish here, it was cooked to perfection – tender and succulent!  This time around, it was even more impressive.

The presentation was so striking that I almost didn’t want to eat it.  We dug in, nonetheless and it was exquisite. The distinctive flavor of the pappa pomodoro and the tender calamaro was an impeccable combination.

Work of art - Calamari, Pappa Pomodoro e Nero di Seppia

We could have stopped there but dessert was calling.  They had a limited and simple selection and we went with tiramisu which was made to order. After the exceptional calamari dish, the dessert was a bit of a letdown.  Fortunately, the amatriciana and calamari dishes were phenomenal that I am longing  to be back again.

Tip: Their lunch menu is limited with 4-5 choices per course  and while the amatriciana is a permanent fixture on their menu, the other dishes may vary.

Average price: €18-€20 per person appetizers, pasta (primo), main course (secondo), dessert

Address:
Via Ettore Rolli, 1  00153 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 589 4333
Website

How to Get There
Take Tram 8 from Largo Argentina and get off at the Trastevere/Pascarella stop ( 8 stops from Largo Argentina) then about a 5-10 minute walk.

Regoli

A visit to Rome would be incomplete for my sister without at least stopping by Regoli once to get a bavarese and the tart with wild strawberries. One of the best pastry shops in Rome, it is one of those place where you can’t judge a book by its cover. The exterior is unremarkable but inside it’s a completely different world.

Tip: Closed on Tuesdays

Address: 
Via dello Statuto, 60
00185 Roma
Tel:06 4872812
Website

How to Get There
Take Metro A and get off at Vittorio Emanuele then a short walk.

Day 3

Coromandel

When I proposed breakfast at Coromandel, my sister was puzzled as Italian breakfast is usually a cappuccino and cornetto.  When I told her they have eggs and guanciale (similar to bacon but tastier) she was even more doubtful – eggs in Italy?

I know, I know but guess what – my sister loves this place – the atmosphere and the food, obviously. The elegant, refined and cozy setting is one where we often meet for ladies who breakfast.

I have a sweet tooth and often opt for either pancakes and french toasts. My sister, on the other hand chose the scrambled eggs with guanciale along with and order of croissant as advised by Gillian.

Croissant at Coromandel

Tip: While service can be slow, they are courteous and very gracious to allow us to spend the entire morning here.

Average price: €10 per person

Address:
Via di Monte Giordano, 60
Tel: 06 6880 2461
Website

How to get there:
From Termini you can take the 64 or 40 and get off at Chiesa Nuova.  These buses also pass by Piazza Venezia. From Chiesa Nuova it is about a 5 -10 minute walk

Ginger

After an enjoyable breakfast, it was time for some shopping.  Making our way to Via del Corso and to Piazza di Spagna, I thought it would be nice to meet my sister-in-law for a quick lunch. Ginger immediately popped into my head.  If there was one place to get a healthy bite, this would be it.

As I have said before, just my stepping in here with the sight of the white-washed walls and display of fruits and vegetables at the counter –I never fail to feel healthier!  I ordered a hearty vegetable soup while my sister got a quinoa salad with apple and cinnamon (and my sister-in-law couldn’t get out of the office!)

Tip:  Very crowded at lunch so get there before 1pm.  They have an extensive menu and can be pricey.

Average price: €15-€18 per person  for a main course and a drink

Address:
Via Borgognona, 44
00187 Rome
Tel: 06 9603 6390
Website

How to get there:
Take any bus that stops at Largo Chigi (62, 160, 85, 492, 175) or the Metro to Spagna then a short walk.

Ladurée

Just a stone’s throw away from Ginger (on the same street) we couldn’t just walk pass without getting some macaroons to go.

Address:
Via Borgognona 4C
Roma – Italy
Tel: 06 6994 1625

Day 4

Dar Bruttone

Trying to manage work and spend time with my sister was a juggling act.  We had been good in keeping to the itinerary but today meant a change in the schedule. Due to time constraints, I suggested having lunch at Dar Bruttone which is in the neighborhood.  I have never been here but have wanted to for a while. I walk by daily and see that it is popular with the locals.

Located on Via Taranto, the exterior with red curtains was far from appealing – so much so that my sister was questioning my choice.  The only thing that made her go with me was that so far, the choices of places we have been to were spot on.

Once we were in, she gave a quick look around and finally let her guard down as the casual setting was actually pleasant.  We were here before the lunch crowd came but there were already a few tables taken.  It is not a spacious place and as we didn’t make reservations, we were lucky to get a table.  The staff was friendly and even spoke English to explain a few dishes on the huge menu board.

With guanciale and tropea onions

We ordered pasta with guanciale and tropea onions which sounded simple but was packed with flavors, good ol’ steak and carciofi alla romana.  The dessert here looked fascinating as we were eyeing the various choices brought out to the other tables.  Shockingly, we didn’t order dessert and while walking out, I was already regretting that decision.

Address
Via Taranto, 118
00182 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 8902 4870

Average price: €25 per person pasta dish (primo), main course (secondo), side dish (contorno) & drinks

How to get there:
From the Colosseum, take the 85 bus  in the direction of Rocca di Pappa and get off at Taranto/Casalmaggiore. It’s basically right in front of the bus stop.  Alternatively, take Metro A to Re di Roma and it’s about a 5-minute walk.

Day 5

Eataly

The first and last time I was in Eataly was last September.  I didn’t understand the enormity of this place, once a former railway station built for the 1990 soccer World Cup, until I stepped in.

It didn’t feel like Italy or anything Italian but rather, I felt like I was transported to a modern city like Tokyo or New York.  It’s a place where you could easily spend an entire day there and I would if it was not out of the way.

Eataly

My sister was curious to see  Eataly and though I was not sure which was worst – crowds on Saturday or the hassle of getting there on a weekday as it’s not well-connected, I chose the former.  We drove there on Saturday with my husband, and I can safely say my sister did some major gift shopping here.  From pastas to torrone to lunch boxes, she did the rounds and more.

Address:
Air Terminal Ostiense
Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492
Tel. +39 06 90279201
Website

How to get there:  Details from their website

Day 6

Lazio countryside

The week my sister was here, she was fortunate that the sun was out and we had lovely spring weather.  My brother-in-law suggested getting out of Rome for lunch in the Sabine region in Lazio.

Sunday lunch outdoors

He is familiar with the area and chose a restaurant that’s perfect for families with young children as has a small playground on site. Having Sunday lunch in the countryside and outdoors with great company is always a pleasure.  We didn’t hold back and orders appetizers, primi, secondi and dessert.

Pappardelle al ragu di cinghiale (Pappardelle with wild boar ragu)

Luca ordered the pappardelle al ragù di cinghiale and we chose a dish typical of this area which is stringozzi ai funghi porcini.  I had a taste of both and they were equally good.

Stringozzi ai funghi porcini

The portions were huge but probably not that huge as we didn’t have problems finishing up the mixed grill with sausages, pork chops and lamb.  We could have skipped desserts – nothing outstanding and even the crème brulee, if you can call it that – had barely a burnt layer of caramel.

Lo Chalet Della Sabina

Via Ternana, 52
Cantalupo in Sabina, Province of Rieti, Italy
Tel: +39 0765 514312

How to get there:
An hour’s drive from Rome by car. Details here

Day 7

Da Cesare

There were two new places that were a must for my sister – Romeo and Da Cesare.  As my sister had two days left in Rome, she decided that we had to go to Da Cesare and if there were close for whatever reason, we still had the next day to go there.  It isn’t difficult to get there but it’s quite a way from the historic center.

Appetizers

I had made reservations this time to not be disappointed and when we got there,  only 3-4 tables were taken. My sister knew what she wanted to order for appetizers and we got the fritti.

As a matter of fact, we got everything fried that meal and like Luca would say, anything fried tastes good.  Fried gnocchi with cacio e pepe was my sister’s pick but it was the meatballs that stood out for me. Service was indifferent and I was disappointed about this. We didn’t order dessert as we plan to get a gelato at Il Gelato.

Delicious!

After the meal, my sister did comment that she enjoyed the meal but it’s distance from the center wasn’t ideal. I agree with her but would like to be back to try their pasta dishes.

Tip: They are closed on Wednesdays and best to make reservations.

Average price: €25 appetizers, main course (second) and wine

Address
Via del Casaletto, 45  00151 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 536015

How to get there:
Take Tram 8 from Largo Argentina until the end of the line.  When you get off the tram go right and cross the traffic light. It’s only a couple of minutes walk.

Ciampini

To walk off the meal, at least that’s what we hope to do, my sister still had an afternoon of shopping. I wasn’t keen but the deal was after the shopping was done, Il Gelato would be our next destination. Imagine our disappointment when we got there to find it closed.

I am not sure but it looks like a permanent closure rather than being just closed for renovations.  There were no notices and whatever the reason they were closed, we were disheartened but not for long.

Gelato at Ciampini

Ciampini to the rescue.  Only a few minutes’ walk from Il Gelato, my sister had no problems figuring out which flavors she was getting and soon enough the disappointment of Il Gelato was a past memory.

Tip: Pay the cashier first before getting your gelato.

Address:
Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, 29
00186 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 687 6606
Website: http://www.ciampini.com/

Day 8

Sweety Roma

We made our way to Monti as my sister wanted to dine again at L’Asino d’Oro.  On her last visit, she was extremely impressed with this place that she absolutely had to be back and so we did.

We were early and since Sweety Roma was in the vicinity, we went to buy some muffins and I got myself some blondies which were nice and chewy.

Even after enjoying a cup of coffee and some small treats, we still found we had some time to roam around and since we were in lively neighborhood of Monti, there is no shortage of things to do here.  My sister, who still had shopping to do, frequently stopped to peep into the many artisanal shops.

Address:
Via Milano, 48  00184 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 4891 3713
Website

How to get there:
Take the 70 bus in either direction and get off at the Nazionale/Palazzo Esposizioni

Gaudeo

Making our way down Via del Boschetto, I realized that Gaudeo was on this stretch.  Despite my sister’s reluctance, as she wanted to safe her appetite for L’Asino D’Oro, I dragged her in.

We were promptly greeted and were given a detailed explanation on every sandwich/panini that they had for that day.  We weren’t talking about 3-4 different choices but more like 7-8.

My sister who is a frequent visitor in Rmme has never seen service like this before and was close to speechless.  At the end, she managed to give her sounding approval and walked away buying not one but two panini to go.

Tip: Love that they have two different sizes of the same sandwich, classico (regular size) or mignon. This mean can sample two or three mignon-sized panini.

Address:
Via Del Boschetto, 112 Roma 00184 . Tel/Fax: + 06 9818 3689
Website

How to get there:
Metro B and get off at Cavour stop then a short walk.

L’Asino d’Oro

Finally, we made it to L’Asino d’Oro.  Though the price for lunch has gone up to €13 (was €12 on her last visit), it’s still an extremely good deal for a three-course fix menu including water and wine.  There are always fast, friendly and efficient.

Tip: They accept payment by cash only for lunch. For March – Lunch only from Tuesdays to Saturdays.  Call to make reservations.

Address:
Via del Boschetto, 73  00184 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 4891 3832

How to get there:
Metro B and get off at Cavour stop and then a short walk.

Come il Latte

It had already been a long day and we weren’t sure about going to Come il Latte. Somehow it worked out and we found ourselves walking there. My sister got salted caramel (caramello al sale) and mascarpone with cookies (mascarpone e biscotti gentilini) and I had a taste of hers.  The verdict is that she will be back here.

Address:
Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26
Tel: 06 4290 3882
Website

How to get there:
Take Metro A and get off at Repubblica or Barberini. I usually get off at Repubblica and then it’s about a 10-minute walk.

Next Visit

There were few places we didn’t manage to get to which means they would be a must on the next trip, Metamorfosi which will be phenomenal and Panificio Bonci where there’s no pizza quite like this in town.

For her next visit, what other places to eat in Rome should she add to this list?

You may think I have the wrong date but here in Italy, Father’s Day is celebrated on March 19th which coincides with St. Joseph’s Day (La Festa di San Giuseppe), who happens to be the patron saint of the Church, fathers and carpenters. And is it then a coincidence that the inaugural mass for Pope Francis is taking place this morning?

Bigne di San Giuseppe

St Joseph’s Day for me is all about bignè di San Giuseppe (tells you how religious I am) and from the bit of research I have done, La Festa di San Giuseppe is a tradition which started in Sicily during the Middle Ages when they was a severe drought and famine. In desperation, the people prayed to St. Joseph asking him to intervene and when the rain came, they celebrated and honored their patron saint with a large feast which today is known as La Tavola di San Giuseppe.

I have never seen this feast before but can just imagine the cornucopia of food especially as we are talking about Sicily! One day I will have to plan another trip to Sicily to experience these celebrations. For now, the bignè di San Giuseppe will have to suffice.

In Rome you can easily know when the next festival or celebration is coming up just by stepping into one of the many pasticcerie (pastry shops) or bakeries and the evidence will be staring you in the face.

One of my favorite pastry shops in Rome

And yeah, there is always something to celebrate. When you see frappe and castagnole, that means Carnevale is on its way and even before that’s over, you would see some bigne di San Giuseppe displayed on the counters. That would then be followed by colomba and chocolate eggs for Easter. I think you get the idea!

A few weeks ago when my sister was in town, we dropped by the neighborhood hole-in-the-wall bakery. Very popular especially on Sundays, it has a nice variety of sweets and though it’s not Regoli, it’s a good stand-in for days when the craving hits.

We were there as my sister wanted to get her usual sweet treats but when she saw the huge bignè on the counter, her eyes lit up and she turned to me and asked “What are those?”

I hadn’t even thought about them all and when it dawned on me, I told her with excitement “There are bignè di San Giuseppe – you have to absolutely try them!” My sister didn’t need much to be sold. And there were heavenly!

Heavenly!

If you can’t get a bite of the bignè San Giuseppe here in Rome, the second best thing is to make them at home. It’s like making cream puffs or choux pastry but instead of baking them, they are fried then filled with pastry cream. You don’t need any fancy equipment as you will see in this recipe. I didn’t have a pastry bag and made do with the good ol’ ziplock bag.

Here’s a recipe which I experimented with and it turned out very nicely. I usually don’t fry things and had considered baking them but heck, La Festa di San Giuseppe is only once a year.

Recipe for the bignè adapted from Le Ricette della Prova del Cuoco

Ingredients for the bignè

250ml of water
50g of butter
150g of flour
4 eggs
Peanut oil for frying
Powdered/icing sugar for dusting at the end.

1. Boil the water and the butter together in a pot.

2. When the butter has melted add all the flour at once and stir constantly on low heat until the mixture leaves the side of the pan and forms a ball.

3. Leave it to cool for about 30 minutes.

4. Add the eggs one at a time and stir until you get a soft dough (not liquid!)

5. Let the dough rest of an hour. During this time you can prepare the pastry cream

6. After an hour, heat up plenty of oil in a pan. With a teaspoon, scoop up some dough and with the help of another teaspoon, form it into a round dough the size of a walnut.

7. Gently (I am stressing this!) drop them into the oil. Do not fry too many at once as they will puff up. Fry them over low/medium heat for about 12-15 minutes until golden.

9. Let them cool.

Recipe for the pastry cream adapted from ButtaLaPasta.it

Ingredients for pastry cream

4 egg yolks
80 grams of sugar (reduced from the original recipe)
40 grams flour (sifted)
½ liter of milk
One vanilla bean
Lemon rind

Directions
1. Mix egg yolks and sugar until smooth. Add the sifted flour to this mixture.

2. Heat the milk and the lemon rind and vanilla bean just to a boil. Remove from heat.

3. Remove the lemon rind and vanilla bean. Split the vanilla bean open and scrap out the seeds adding them to the milk.

4. Slowly add the milk to the egg mixture whisking constantly.

5. Pour the mixture back into a pot and cook over low heat until it becomes thick.

6. Pour the cream into a bowl and cover the surface with plastic wrap so that surface doesn’t form a crust.

7. Let it cool.

Assembling the bignè di San Giuseppe

Homemade bignè di San Giuseppe - Doesn't look too bad right?

1. Cut a small section from the corner of your  ziplock bag as your makeshift pastry bag.  Fill the bag with the pastry cream.

2. Take a bignè, pick the least presentable side and using the back of a teaspoon, gently make a hole (I used a chopstick – much easier).

3. Then fill the bignè.

4. Dust with powdered sugar and enjoy!!

Enjoy!

Final Thoughts

The pastry cream wasn’t outstanding and I plan on looking for another recipe or use the one my cousin, who is a pastry chef, gave me. The bignè, on the other hand, turned out beautifully!

To give you an idea of how it’s done, here’s a video (in Italian) to give you a quick look at how the pros make bignè di San Giuseppe!